The first glimpse of the Khyber Pass, looking into Afghanistan.
The cargo's going back into Afghanistan now after the war.
They feel it's safe. So lots of traffic going back.
Here are the regimental emblems of the British regiments
that fought on the North-West Frontier.
There's the Gordon Highlanders.
The current military presence at the Khyber Pass are the Khyber Rifles -
a Pakistani force who look after security at the pass.
They live in this rather comfortable area of green grass
away from the bare rock at the pass itself.
They laid on a party for us.
The walnut tree is chained down because it's called the "I'm Under Arrest" tree.
Some British officers had had a few drinks, saw the tree moving
and ordered the sergeant to put the tree under arrest.
Wacky days.
- So what's this? A splendid building. - This is a very old building.
350 years old. And, er...
There are many...
Before going up into the mountains in Pakistan, I talked to Prince Malik Ata.
Do you travel to the UK?
I have travelled around the world many times.
I travel in this dress -
the dress you are seeing is the dress in which I go around the world.
- That turban as well? - Turban as well.
- The turban is seven yards. It's not small. - I bet you're not popular at the theatre!
Because the people behind me don't see anything!
I've never seen as many forts as I have in Pakistan...
There are many tribal... Every tribe has its own fort and system of protection.
They are always in warfare, so forts have to be used.
(PALIN) So there's been a history of people fighting.
This room here is the courtroom...
where all cases from times, say, 300 years back were decided in this room.
- So this has been a working court for 300 years? - Yes. More than 300 years.
Are there any recent cases?
Yes. About three weeks back,
there was a very old family vendetta running round
and 13 people had been murdered on both sides - the total comes to 26 murder cases.
And because they were honourable people, they didn't want to involve the police.
They had never gone to a police station.
They were just killing each other, like mad dogs.
So now the legal people stepped in and said, "Enough is enough.
"You have killed 13 on each side. Come before us and we'll make a final verdict."
And after a prolonged enmity, everyone wants peace,
so they came down, they heard the judgment,
did what the elders said, and now they have peace.
- Do you have to look after all this? - Yes.
I have to look after these buildings and the old prison
and a few other buildings.
- Do you see that mountain? - Yes. Do you have to look after that?
- That's all my land. - That's about five miles away.
This is somewhere where we can change some...
- Hello, sir. You have dollar signs here. - I money-changer.
- Can you change British money? Sterling? - Yes, of course.
- It's not Euro. - I like Euro.
I've been in Europe. France, Holland, Italy, Germany, Switzerland.
- Do you think Britain should join the Euro? - Yes. Why not?
Why not? Well, you agree with Mr Blair.
I agree. One Europe is very strong.
So you agree with Europe having all the same money?
- Yes. - No more pounds sterling.
All is good. But people is coming together - good, strong.
Here is the Queen. We may not have it for long. We may have a referendum.
Yes. I've been Buckingham Palace.
I've been. She's... I like very much Diana.
- You like cheese? - Diana. Lady Diana.
Lady Diana. Sorry. It's £100. How much will you give me?
9,250 rupees.
- So how much is that? - 9,550 rupees. 95.50.
- 92.50. - What is the general rate?
- Er... 90... - 92.50.
- That's a very good rate. - A special price. You are my good guest.
Thank you. Here's £100 with Her Majesty on it. Thank you.
- 9,250. - Wow, that's really good. Nice and clean.
One, two, three, four... five...
He says I have to count them. I trust you. Eight, nine...
- 250. There we go. - Thank you. Nice meeting to you.
Very kind. What if I find somebody who gives me 93.50?
No, no, no. We take only 50 rupees commission.
- Only 50 rupees? Has he taken it? - I take it.
- Thank you very much. - Nice to meet you.
Next time you come to Buckingham Palace, let me know.
- Inshallah. - Inshallah.
- Thank you. - Bye. Thank you very much.
- Look at that money. Bad, torn notes... - And they give you nice crisp notes?
You give them any number of money and they will give you some change.
Hello.
There are some nasty things there. There's a...
That's 1,000. That's a tenner. Can you change a ten?
- Maybe he'll give me... another one. - Or you can have 50s or 100s.
- I'll have one 500 and the rest in 100s. - OK.
How much do they charge for this facility?
(SPEAKS URDU)
There's Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan.
Wearing one of those... There we go.
Is it easy for him to get the clean notes? He goes to the bank?
This is his commission. 20 rupees is the commission.
20 rupees. I've got 20 really mouldy ones!
- Look at those. Disgusting. Thank you. - Thank you very much.
- We've cleaned up, Zahoor! - Thank you.
Thank you very much.
- Is this just a normal day's activity? - Yes. Every day like this.
Right from morning to late evening - sunset time.
I'm out early on the streets of Peshawar with Zahoor Duranni,
my host in Peshawar.
Amongst all these people, produce has come in from the countryside, fresh every morning.
There aren't many women buying and selling.
In England we'd see more women doing the shopping.
Do they shop at a different time?
(ZAHOOR) Women would come during the midday time when there's less crowds.
Morning is very busy, as you can see.
This is the railway line. And trains come along?
When you hear the whistle of the train, naturally everybody takes away his goods.
You see it's just like a sea of men's hats and things like that.
(TRAIN HORN)
0ne of the old towers that stood at the gates of Peshawar
and now the whole area here is taken up with dentist shops,
offering all kinds of services -
from fillings to complete sets of teeth just lying therel
I'd like to ask Abdul Wahid the cost of taking a tooth out.
(SPEAKS URDU)
It ranges from 100 rupees to 300 rupees.
The prices must go up when you go to high-street dentists.
(PALIN) But he would do it for one pound?
(ZAHOOR) 100 to 200 rupees - one to two pounds.
What? He's going to take one of mine out?
Yes. He said, "Shall I take one out?"
No. I've got so few. I'm hanging on to them.
This is like Stonehenge. It's a preserved monument. I have a few holes there.
But if you took one out, I might scream. I might go, "Aaagh!"
No, no, no.
Michael, he said, "You need two wisdom teeth."
I need some wisdom teeth? Yes! I need some wisdom, that's for sure.
Thank you. It was very kind of you. I must let your customers come in now.
- You're very busy. Goodbye. Thank you. - Thank you very much.
0ne thing that strikes you in Pakistan is the vivid colours and decoration of the trucks.
Everyone vying to be the best and the boldest painted. No truck is left unadorned.
Why is it so important to have them done so lavishly?
That's the temperament of the local Patan community.
They really have a very bright, colourful mentality.
Music, art, drama.
They are keen to have these buses well-decorated.
Is it very competitive between the different owners?
Yes. There's a lot of competition.
Sometimes they say, "My truck is a more well-painted, extraordinary design
"and it was designed by a prestigious master designer."
You do have master designers? They're important people?
- They're expressing themselves. - (PALIN) Pride in their country, too.
- (PALIN) Romanticised mountain landscapes. - Exactly.
Then they come out with very colourful flowers
or very impressive scenery or some very important site of some building.
Through painting and what you can do...
I also had a chance to talk to the man who was in charge of the painting.
Muslim... Christian... Hindu... Sikh -
all is...
- One God is all peoples. - (ZAHOOR) He said, actually...
(SPEAKS URDU)
(ZAHOOR) We are all one.
- You are as my... brother... - Yes.
(PALIN) That's why I see your painting and it makes me very inspired.
It's a good feeling seeing it. I admire your work and how long it takes.
(ZAHOOR SPEAKS URDU)
(PALIN) I'm going to go home and paint my car.
I am...
(ZAHOOR) "If I get a chance, I will paint that car for you."
Is the best.
It's sports day in Chitral.
(BLOWS WHISTLE)
Local games - all the people from the villages.
(C0MMENTARY 0VER L0UDSPEAKER)
Bicycle polo as well as tug of war.
If you look carefully, you'll see Mel Gibson. There he is.
0h... no.
Polo - great game of the North-West Frontier.
I didn't know tug of war was. I wonder if this was imported by the Brits.
It seems to go on for ever, the tug of war.
There's a goal at polo. The end of the first chukka.
How many Kalash people are there?
(SAIFULLAH) In the three valleys we are 3,500, something like that.
- So quite a small number. - Yeah. Very small number.
- Now it is increasing again. - Is it? Oh.
Do you get a lot of outsiders coming in?
The main valley, called Bumburet Valley,
there you can get some more visitors.
In a remote corner of the North-West Frontier,
almost cut off by high mountains and very narrow passes,
is this Kalash Valley.
Their national dress. Beautiful embroidered dress.
Quite poor people, but fantastic craftsmanship and fantastic needlework.
Naughty, naughty, naughty skirtl You're not going out again like that.
(GRINDING SOUND)
What's this here? Not the showers. This is actually barley being ground.
Anywhere in the west this would be in some heritage museum.
Some think they're descended from Alexander the Great.
They're not Muslim, so they've kept a fairly separate, very interesting culture.
The women much more open than you would find in the rest of Pakistan. Unveiled.
From my driver, who took me up to the Shandur Pass,
I learnt a little bit of Khowar.
I learnt "grandmother" is "wow" and "foot" is "pong".
I'm just going through them now.
- Niska. Ka. - Ka.
- Greck? - Gretch.
Gretch. Sorry about that. Just get that bit of chapati off your nose.
Gretch.
Um... Apak?
- Apak. - Apak. Chun.
- Chun. - This is going to be disgusting.
- Ligini. - Ligini.
Kapal... Bouk.
Baz. Zanu. Pong. Hey!
Very good.
Khowar language courses available from Raza Han, Chitral.
Professor.
Leader of the Chitral team in freestyle polo at 12,000 feet was Sikander ul-Mulk.
They'd had some hard times and a few misfortunes.
How do you rate Gilgit? They're a known quantity, are they?
Yes. They have the same horses they've been playing for the last two years
and they're in good condition - no injuries, nothing.
What are your advantages? How are you going to play it?
We'll win mostly depending on the fine horses that we have.
If we can keep up till the very end,
I think our horses will do better, stamina-wise.
They'll do better than the Punjabi horses.
Is there a difference in style?
One seems rather regimented and Chitral seem more happy-go-lucky. Is that true?
Yes, it is true. You can call them more professionals.
We are not. Most of the horses we have are owned by the players themselves.
Whereas the Gilgit side, they're all owned by either the...
scouts in Gilgit or the police or there's another works department.
They are the people who own the horses and they employ players to play polo.
- It's a little unfair, don't you think? - Not little. It's a lot!
- Very unfair. - Very unfair! But that's the way it is.
And how do you think it's going to go tomorrow?
Tomorrow. Well...
They have an edge, but I don't think that much.